Svalbard 2023: Trip summary

Now that I’ve returned from the trip and have had a chance to think about the 12 days I spent in Svalbard, I feel like I can make a compelling list of things that I learned and choose my top 5 photos. I’ve organized my lessons learned into three categories: Photography, gear, and expedition.

What I learned

Photography

  1. Shoot less, observe more: Resist the temptation to spray and pray at everything. Spend time observing the environment and photograph more carefully.

  2. Get your modes right: Set up a dedicated mode for landscapes (2s timer, ISO100, one-shot AF, etc.), wildlife (high speed burst, auto ISO, continuous AF, minimum 1/2000s, etc.), and general-purpose shooting (one-shot AF, auto ISO, low speed burst or single shot, etc.)

  3. Think different: Don’t shoot the same thing as everyone else. Think of how you can get a fresh perspective (I.e., get very low for a wildlife shot) or a new subject.

  4. Get organized: Agree ahead of time how you are going to organize and tag your pictures so it’s easier to pick up when you get home

Gear

  1. Spend once, cry once: EF 100-400 with 1.4x adapter was a pain, buy the right lens (RF 100-500) from the start

  2. Don’t underestimate filters: It’s bright in the Arctic, a 6-stop ND filter and two old, scratched up Lee grad filters won’t cut it. Get a comprehensive, easy-to-use filter system. Don’t use cheap filters. After this trip, I upgraded to a new magnetic Kase system (which almost everyone on the trip had but me).

  3. Get a proper laptop: Photo processing and backup was a pain with an iPad, even an M1 Pro.

  4. Sync camera times: Check as soon as you arrive in a new country that your cameras are on the same time zone or suffer the consequences

You can read more about what gear I brought and what worked and what didn’t in more detail (including recommendations on clothing to bring) on the dedicated gear and packing list page.

Expedition

  1. Spend time with the guides: People don’t demand as much time from the guides as you think. Spend time to get to know and learn from them.

  2. Direct the zodiac: Most people don’t know what to shoot and don’t want to direct the zodiac. If you see a shot, be excited about it and ask the driver.

  3. Have drinks together: There’s no better way to make friends than having a beer or a cocktail (don’t forget the ice!) in the lounge together. Don’t edit alone in your room (I never did, but point stands)

  4. Know when to rest: At the same time, know when to rest and shower. I was strategic in taking my showers when it was quiet and the water hot. Even though I had drinks in the lounge, I didn’t stay up too late either. I slept through most of breakfast to get an extra hour or so.

  5. Eat less than you think: I definitely gained weight on the trip. You might feel hungry after being out in the cold, but you burned less calories than you think.

There is a fourth category of what I learned - And it’s about our planet. I saw how it is changing much faster than we think. You might just see it on TV, but it feels much more real when guides not much older than yourself can tell you they are seeing the Arctic climate change right before their eyes. Though Svalbard is mostly pristine, we also saw the impacts of ocean waste. More than once we came across trash and fishing nets floating in the ocean.

My favorite images

With these lessons and memories in mind, here are my 5 favorite photos from the trip. I won’t go as far as to sort these and pick an absolute favorite, so they’re just in chronological order. I typically don’t name my photos, but I did name these five.

  1. Birds of Gnålodden: I love this shot for a couple reasons. No one on the trip has a photo like it, the clouds and mountains are magnificent, and motion blurred birds diagonal flight really make this shot come together.

  2. Portia: No top 5 would be complete without a photograph of the polar bear herself.

  3. Magdalena: I took a lot of black and white panos on this trip, but this photo is my favorite because of the seasickness story around it, not to mention the dramatic scene itself.

  4. Kongsfjord: This is probably the most dramatic photo of the bunch, with the clouds and dark blue water and ice.

  5. Nunatak: The most minimalist photo of the bunch.